2.) As you can see, I lengthened the bottom, and made the top reach the neckline. I decided to go straight into the real fabric as I've made waistcoats before and was confident to do this.
3.) I hadn't bought the back or lining fabric yet, so I used a mock fabric to fit this part. I pulled the back in slightly at the top.
4.) I also opened the seam slightly at the bottom as you can see it is slightly pulling.
5.) When cutting out the backing and lining, I decided to leave 7 inches open at the back seams and side seams after research into 18th century waistcoats. I found that most had openings here.
6.) I then added facing to the lining at the front.
7.) I added a basting stitch to the front fabric as I wanted to secure the fabric to the calico backing. I bought this fabric in Thailand, and although I love the floral pattern, I found that it's stretched badly when ironed so I have avoided ironing from now.
8.) Before I begin sewing the waistcoat together, I decided to practice some embroidery that I will add along the front for detailing. Although the fabric is extremely detailed in patterns, I think that when viewed up close, the embroidery will make it look even richer.
9.) Here is the beginning of my embroidery. I will add the button hole in between every second flower. The buttons will be small so not effect the pattern.
10.) I began putting my waistcoat together by sewing the armholes and the neckline, leaving the shoulder seam and bottom open. (So the waistcoat can be pulled through later) As you can see, to get a nice curve at these seams, I cut the fabric close to the stitch line on the inside which you can see in later photos.
11.) I then did then same with the front panels, instead leaving the sides and shoulder seam open.
12.) Although it's hard to tell from the photo, I then turned the back of the waistcoat inside out and sewing the front and back side seams together to the point of the opening. I then snipped the fabric at this point in order to turn the rest of the side seams in.
13.) When turned the right way, the sides are sewn together but the bottom half is left open.
14.) As the bottom seam has been left open, I then turned the fabric inside out again and sewed the front shoulder seam to the back.
15.) I had a fitting with my model to check the button positioning's. I am happy with the fit of the waistcoat. Although you can see the period shirt underneath, when trying the garments on all together, I decided that I didn't like the colour of the shirt and I think cream will work best.
16.) Back view
17.) After the fitting, I just needed to finish off the bottom of the waistcoat and add the fastenings. Here is the side opening of the waistcoat where the front fabric meets the back fabric. Here I have pinned the opening together and hand sewed it. (To do this, I snipped the seam allowance horizontally at the point in which the opening began, so that I could fold it in on itself).
18.) This is a photo of the side of this same point, but this time concentrating on the back fabric. You can slightly see where I snipped the front fabric seam allowance. I then sewed the opening of the back fabric together to create this opening. (Its quite hard to show in pictures!)
19.) Once I had sewn the opening together, I then continued the stitch along the bottom of the waistcoat.
20.) I then pressed all the seams and hand sewed the opening at the back. Complete! (The mannequin I have is far too small but I know from my fitting that the waistcoat fits)
21.) Side view.
22.) Now for the finishing touches. In-between every 2nd flower embroidery, I stitched a button hole using my sewing machine.
23.) I then matched up where the buttons would sit, careful to check as I went as I don't want the fabric to pull if the button is positioned in the wrong place.
24.) Finished! (I know the shirt has changed since the fitting, but see my post on making a men's period shirt to see more).
25.) Close up with the embroidery.
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